I am affronted (going for a touch of British dramatics ala Beatrix Potter)! Never in my traveling experience have been so deceived and misled to such an unparalleled nth degree!
For my first trekking trip into Cat Ba National Park, the travel information personnel told me that a local GUIDE would take me through the terrains. I was also promised a GUIDE for my second trip (former was half day; this one being a full day – and more about it too, but later).
From my past experience trekking with genuine, qualified trekking guides, they go beyond the basic expectations of sending one into the terrain and out (optimistically, in one piece). They have always been able to share about the national myths, intimate knowledge of the hinterland and even provide information about what one sees and touches along the way. Most importantly, the basic mandate of being able to speak the trekkers’ language(s) is, not only expected, but also paramount.
Trekking guides are more than just tour guides. More than just skimming a country’s urban landscape, they bring you right into the heart of the country – the virgin part of the country that still pulses with natural life; the part where life actually begins. So as you can see, trekking guides is not a easy title to carry. Certain (great) responsibilities and expectations come with the title.
So imagine my chagrin and disappointment when what I got was not a guide. Instead, the person was at most local who knows the terrain (who henceforth will be known as ‘local’). How can I be so decisive and sweeping about my statement? Read on, O’ gentle reader…
First, well, it’s not exactly the local’s fault. The travel agent promised, on the full day trekking trip that “the trek is very gentle… villages, road… blah blah blah…” so I thought, “ok, gentle slopes, what can be so tough?”. Well, in actual fact, VERY TOUGH. Apparently, the locals have a knack understatement. What might be advertised as “undulating slopes with scenic vistas at everything turn” is in actual fact heaving 60º reliefs.
Secondly, the designation “guide” is a radical misnomer. As mentioned earlier, these lead trekkers are at best locals who are familiar with the terrain (which is obvious since they are born and bred here). Otherwise they have no idea whatsoever about ‘guiding’ trekkers through the terrain. First of all, there is the language issue; how much can you learn from a trekking trip when the most exciting thing they can tell you during the trail are basic nouns like “butterfly” and “ants’ nest”? Seriously, not even the species of butterfly perhaps? Or even explain why ants built their nest in mud clumps on branches instead of holes in the ground?
Since they can’t relate the interesting features of the local hinterland and its corresponding biosphere, you can forget about local myths and legends. Next comes the complete lack of the concept of “guiding”. Yes, I know being a local, one is deadly familiar, even bored with the flora and fauna one grew up with, However, as visitors, one is completely new and rare to the scene and is curious about the surrounding.
Even if one is not equipped to share their secrets, at least allow the guest to take in the scenery and atmosphere. Instead, what happens is a chase down the trail in what seems like a rush to the deadline. The local ALWAYS is at least 10 meters ahead of us. We aren’t even sure which is the safest and most efficient path to take. The fellow was more couldn’t be bothered to ensure that we are on the efficient track, much less our safety. An inconsequential “be careful” or worse, a grunt of “ooh” when one hears a skidded sole or a bumped bum, does not a safety measure make!
Being a trekking enthusiast, I’ve had many excellent prior experiences with guides when traveling overseas (god bless them). They share their knowledge readily and enthusiastically. Even when language fails; which is rare since they are prepared and well equipped to share their knowledge, we would be engaged in some wild gesticulations with utters of common nouns and verbs just to get the message across. At these moments, it’s their passion and enthusiasm to relate their understanding of the hinterland that both intrigue and impress.
The language and expertise issue is just a couple of the deeply pervading issues that render Cat Ba, and indeed the other parts of Vietnam that I have visited, ill-prepared and ill-equipped for tourism. It’s akin to inviting friends over to one’s home, expecting these guests to just move around the dwelling themselves without any intention to describe the effort put to do up the apartment.
In simple words – a campaign in vain.
ADDENDUM:
In case you are a trekking enthusiast and interested to go on a trekking trail in Cat Ba, here are some prior-information that you may be interested to know to help you prepare for your journey. Note: they are NOT optional. Seriously!
The Terrain:
It’s T-O-U-G-H! I can’t emphasise this enough. I am not kidding when I talked described the 60º undulating landscape. These up-and-down oscillations can rise for tens of meters before they fall steeply. It is NOT for the fainthearted who are used to mild, gentle trails.
The trails are composed mainly of granite boulders which provides no grip, especially after a tropical rain or a particularly wet morning (humidity).
The Locals (aka ‘unqualified guides’):
They are necessary and will bring you in (or up, depending on the trail you choose) and out of the trail, but don’t expect anything more; unless one speaks Thiên Việt.
Wear:
For my first trekking trip into Cat Ba National Park, the travel information personnel told me that a local GUIDE would take me through the terrains. I was also promised a GUIDE for my second trip (former was half day; this one being a full day – and more about it too, but later).
From my past experience trekking with genuine, qualified trekking guides, they go beyond the basic expectations of sending one into the terrain and out (optimistically, in one piece). They have always been able to share about the national myths, intimate knowledge of the hinterland and even provide information about what one sees and touches along the way. Most importantly, the basic mandate of being able to speak the trekkers’ language(s) is, not only expected, but also paramount.
Trekking guides are more than just tour guides. More than just skimming a country’s urban landscape, they bring you right into the heart of the country – the virgin part of the country that still pulses with natural life; the part where life actually begins. So as you can see, trekking guides is not a easy title to carry. Certain (great) responsibilities and expectations come with the title.
So imagine my chagrin and disappointment when what I got was not a guide. Instead, the person was at most local who knows the terrain (who henceforth will be known as ‘local’). How can I be so decisive and sweeping about my statement? Read on, O’ gentle reader…
First, well, it’s not exactly the local’s fault. The travel agent promised, on the full day trekking trip that “the trek is very gentle… villages, road… blah blah blah…” so I thought, “ok, gentle slopes, what can be so tough?”. Well, in actual fact, VERY TOUGH. Apparently, the locals have a knack understatement. What might be advertised as “undulating slopes with scenic vistas at everything turn” is in actual fact heaving 60º reliefs.
Secondly, the designation “guide” is a radical misnomer. As mentioned earlier, these lead trekkers are at best locals who are familiar with the terrain (which is obvious since they are born and bred here). Otherwise they have no idea whatsoever about ‘guiding’ trekkers through the terrain. First of all, there is the language issue; how much can you learn from a trekking trip when the most exciting thing they can tell you during the trail are basic nouns like “butterfly” and “ants’ nest”? Seriously, not even the species of butterfly perhaps? Or even explain why ants built their nest in mud clumps on branches instead of holes in the ground?
Since they can’t relate the interesting features of the local hinterland and its corresponding biosphere, you can forget about local myths and legends. Next comes the complete lack of the concept of “guiding”. Yes, I know being a local, one is deadly familiar, even bored with the flora and fauna one grew up with, However, as visitors, one is completely new and rare to the scene and is curious about the surrounding.
Even if one is not equipped to share their secrets, at least allow the guest to take in the scenery and atmosphere. Instead, what happens is a chase down the trail in what seems like a rush to the deadline. The local ALWAYS is at least 10 meters ahead of us. We aren’t even sure which is the safest and most efficient path to take. The fellow was more couldn’t be bothered to ensure that we are on the efficient track, much less our safety. An inconsequential “be careful” or worse, a grunt of “ooh” when one hears a skidded sole or a bumped bum, does not a safety measure make!
Being a trekking enthusiast, I’ve had many excellent prior experiences with guides when traveling overseas (god bless them). They share their knowledge readily and enthusiastically. Even when language fails; which is rare since they are prepared and well equipped to share their knowledge, we would be engaged in some wild gesticulations with utters of common nouns and verbs just to get the message across. At these moments, it’s their passion and enthusiasm to relate their understanding of the hinterland that both intrigue and impress.
The language and expertise issue is just a couple of the deeply pervading issues that render Cat Ba, and indeed the other parts of Vietnam that I have visited, ill-prepared and ill-equipped for tourism. It’s akin to inviting friends over to one’s home, expecting these guests to just move around the dwelling themselves without any intention to describe the effort put to do up the apartment.
In simple words – a campaign in vain.
ADDENDUM:
In case you are a trekking enthusiast and interested to go on a trekking trail in Cat Ba, here are some prior-information that you may be interested to know to help you prepare for your journey. Note: they are NOT optional. Seriously!
The Terrain:
It’s T-O-U-G-H! I can’t emphasise this enough. I am not kidding when I talked described the 60º undulating landscape. These up-and-down oscillations can rise for tens of meters before they fall steeply. It is NOT for the fainthearted who are used to mild, gentle trails.
The trails are composed mainly of granite boulders which provides no grip, especially after a tropical rain or a particularly wet morning (humidity).
The Locals (aka ‘unqualified guides’):
They are necessary and will bring you in (or up, depending on the trail you choose) and out of the trail, but don’t expect anything more; unless one speaks Thiên Việt.
Wear:
- Long sleeves tops and long bottoms.
- Proper trekking footwear; NO slippers, NO sandals. They MUST provide excellent grip on muddy and rocky, bouldery terrains.
- Insect repellant (of the strongest kind and keep reapplying).
- Sun block (you need it, especially at the peak)
Bring along:
- Extra socks.
- Insect repellant.
- Sunblock.
- Basic first-aid kit.
- Water (at least 1 liter).
- Poncho (disposable ones are ok).
- Camera (of course).
- (Keep all these things in a convenient backpack and waterproof, i.e. Ziploc™ them).
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