Saturday, May 13, 2006

5th day - Farms, temples and capes, oh my!

Day 5 - 13th May Tourist Trap Day (sigh...)

10:30 a.m

I am beginning to look forward to breakfast at the hotel's restaurant cum bistro. It's such a joy to be greeted by a friendly good morning when Jan and I arrive.

Lee is such a golden glow of sunburst and cheeriness that you can't help but smile and feel happy, positive and hopeful about the day ahead. I love the way she keeps asking us if we want "sarm-singh meure..." for our breakfast. If you are not aware, "sarm-singh meure" is not a Thai breakfast delicacy, although it might be, I am not sure. It's really her way of asking us if we would like something more for our breakfast.

Also, I think I remind the breakfast head-cook of her son or something, or at least I seem to make her feel all maternal-like. It's strange the way she smiles at me while preparing breakfast orders.

On the other hand, the younger ladies (I should say, girls, because they really are that young), just gather in their corner and seem to steal looks at me and giggle... I can't be imagining things can I? It's been happening the past few mornings... unless there's something seriously wrong with my face (gasp, breakouts?)... or hair (unintentional bed head?)...

Speaking of day ahead, Neng, our friend-guide-tuktuk driver (even the Thais are hyphenates...) is picking us up at 11 for a day of promised fun.

11:00 a.m.

Neng is here. He told us the weather don't seem too promising after looking at the sky...

Thunderheads loom above us.

I told him it's okay, I am sure the weather would turn out just fine. I've packed sunshine in my haversack...

12:00 p.m.

View of Patong, Karon and Kata beach...

...with friends.

Arrived at Kata View Point. Supposedly one of the perfect spot to catch the sunset. But drizzles along the way here doesn't bode well for the evening... well, we'll see.

1:30 p.m.

Wow... talk about four seasons in one day! The sun is blazing here at Promtheap Cape! My skin hurts just standing under it. Thank god for sunscreen...

The grand proportion and opulence of the Cape Promtheap Lighthouse...

...its commanding view of the Andaman Sea...

...and the road that leads to it.

360º view of Cape Promtheap.

2:30 p.m.

On our way to Wat Chalong we popped into a snake farm. Neng told us it's a 'funny' place (i.e., funny as in enjoyable) and has a very educational show in store for us.

The show featuring cobras...

...and jumping snakes.

Well, the show was educational, it taught us how to avoid snake attacks and so forth. But at the back of my mind, I keep thinking, how did the farm get all the animals? Is it a farm or a zoo? Or a poachers' front? If it's a snake farm, why are there mongooses, sea eagles, tiger cats and other none serpentine animals in the farm?

We tried to ask the keepers. But apart from saying that the snakes are purely bred for show, they remain reticent.

So it's normal for a snake farm to have snakes...

...but sea-eagles...

...and tiger-cats? What gives...?

Am I thinking too much...? Or is there a vibe at the place that got my Hare/Libra senses working overtime?

3:30 p.m.

Finally at Wat Chalong (赵隆寺).

The severe symmetry of the wat(temple).

The grandiosity of the main stupa.

The serenity of the incense shrine.

I love the tranquility a Buddhist temple proffers its guests.

Quiet, peaceful serene with a gentle waft of jasmine in the air.

Your soul just feels at ease and in peace at once.

Neng asked if I wanted to offer incense and stuff... I don't feel the need... I grew up with Buddha on my side; he's always been my friend, albeit a wiser, more serene one.

I don't offer incense to my friend... just quality time.

For cleansing...

for devotion...

for reflection...

...for wisdom.

4:30 p.m.

It's the weekend night market!

Gosh! It's huge!!

Don't think we can do anything much within an hour...

Since we are going to catch the sunset at 6:30, we need to head for Promtheap at 5:40. We'll just browse through the merchandise and decide on what to get when we come back after...

5:40 p.m.

Ok, here's my shopping list...

Aromatherapy lamp.

Incense cones and burner.

Army surplus messenger bag.

And I've gotten my coke bottle - one liter glass bottle with Thai inscriptions. Heh... now off to catch the sunset.

6:20 p.m.

Gold...

It adorns the entire Andaman sea.

6:40 p.m.

Looking at the sun setting over the horizon, I felt a primitive fear. It's a kind of hopelessness, uncertainty... what if it never rises again...?

Of course, I am aware that it will rise again, but deep inside, there is an innate fear... and I begin to empathize with the ancients' need to worship, sacrifice to and create stories about that golden orb that arcs across the land each day to die, fizzled by the seawater.

Watching the sunset over the horizon...

It's easier to understand the ancient fear...

of losing the day

to the unknown horizon.

Partly self assurance, partly explanation. A heady mix.

7:30 p.m.

Night market again! This time to REALLY shop!

7:32 p.m.

Note to self:

Stay calm amidst all the merchandise.

No matter how cheap it may seem to be, ALWAYS claim that it is TOO EXPENSIVE and bargain.

"Paenhg" (expensive) is a good word, use it often.

8:15 p.m.

Oh my god... shoppers' other paradise... I think I must make this place part of my annual pilgrimage.

Gracious! Food!

8:30 p.m.

Finally found my canumbeung (ke-num-be-uhng). A sweet dessert of thin crispy crust topped with sweet cornflour cream and desiccated coconut. I stood at the stall and ate 12 at one go... and cost me only 12 baht.

Also bought fried oyster omelet, braised duck and pork's leg, crab cakes and water apples (aka air jambu, cashew apples) for dinner at hotel room. Can't believe water apples cost 45 baht/kg. Back home, it's S$2 for 4 pieces. Sigh...

11:00 p.m.

I spent the day sitting in front with Neng, our hyphenated guide. While traveling, I like to talk with the locals and find out how the life is really like away from the glitz and glamour of tourism.

Behind the thin veneer of all the beauty you see as a tourist, is sometimes a reality more harshly beautiful than you wish to discover.

I'll leave this reflection for later... when I return home.

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