Fabulista Presents: The New Gentleman’s Manifesto.

Style:Men published in their sophomore edition, the new manifesto for the 21^st century gentleman.

Don’t:

• Enforce political or religious views on anyone; one is a liberal and only respects the laws of nature and humanity.
• Insult or swear at another man, invoking religious icons or person’s parents. Not in defence; not in offence.
• Be involved in petty gossip or idle talk, nor keep oneself in the unenlightened company of those who do, especially if one is the object of their gossip.
• Say something that makes another feels small.
• Comment on another man’s dress sense – even if the person looks like a dog’s dinner – unless one's opinions are sought after.
• Attempt to correct another person’s English unless one is the editor of the financial times or an English Language professor.

Do:

• Not be easily offended – a good sense of humour is the most stylish gentlemanly accessory.
• Not be afraid to try new things; never be biased against shape, size or fit till one tries it.
• Carry only the necessities in one's wallet and a man-bag only for function and not a fashion statement.
• Always use a foot deodorant when sockless; slip-ons are strictly for yachting getaways in the Bahamas or the like. No exceptions.
• Own at least one navy blazer; or black in the case of a mob or triad leader.
• Have or cultivate exquisite taste and sophistication. Never over accessorise or outshine a lady companion. Hip-hop stars are exceptions.
• Not rumple one’s cloths; posture is all-important, even when sleeping.
• Wear a tie-bar just below the second button, technically the third button from the top.
• Always wear an undershirt.
• Exercise and maintain a balanced diet. Fit into your clothes but never deprive or starve oneself of food.
• Always wear well-cut clothes at an ideal length; never look like one is wearing borrowed or hand-me-downs.
• Always wear proper underwear; boxers or briefs are never too small or big and jockstraps are permissible only to cricketers.
• Never look down on one who cannot afford to dress as well as one does.
• Not be ashamed of owning six identical, well-cut shirts.
• Be well versed in knotting a tie.
• Learn how to sew and replace any button on one’s garments.
• Make sure that one’s belt goes through every loop on one’s trousers.
• Maintain a neat and simple haircut, regardless of length; radical cuts are only for trendy boys.
• Ensure that shoelaces never come undone; Velcro is not a solution.
• Not kiss and tell; it is not one’s forte.

Fabulista Adores: Leather

There is nothing quite like the soft-spoken nod towards taste and refinement than a quality leather accessory.

Types of Leather
(this list is non-exhaustive)

	Pigskin - Economically priced leather, noticeable hair follicle pattern, thin leather generally .8-1.0 mm thick.
	Pig suede - Economically priced suede, noticeable hair follicle pattern, very soft, thin suede generally .8-1.0 mm thick.
	Cowhide - Maximum valued material for texture and appearance, top grain finish, extremely durable, firm yet easy to break in, comfortable, thickness vary greatly from .8 mm thick through 1/8" thick for belting and saddlery, grain can be from extra smooth through a pebble grain uniform pattern, generally less expensive grains will have some spider web type gain pattern.
	Cow suede - Maximum durability in a suede, comfortable, can come is a variety of softness; thickness can vary greatly from .8 mm thick through 1/8" thick.
	Goatskin - Economically priced leather more durable than pigskin but with a courser tiny pebble grain finish. Generally only available in weights of .9 to 1.1 mm thick.
	Horse hide - Can be expensive but lately has been pricing similar to cowhide but happens to be harder to work with, stiffer and stronger. Ideal for bag and cases or heavy biker garments. Harder to find these days. Thicknesses from 1.0 to 1/8" thick.
	Split Leather - Economically priced leather that can appear like top grain finish or a rustic cracked finish leather. Strong and durable and can vary in thickness from .8 mm thick through 1/8" thick.
	Calfskin - Rare in comparison to other leathers, baby cow, more durable than cow, thin, softer, thickness range from .8 mm to 2.0 mm thickness.
	Buffalo - Value priced, heavy duty leather, hair follicles and grain often evident, durable and generally found in thickness from .9 mm to 3.0 mm thick.
	Steerhide - A skin from a male cow or male buffalo that is generally the same properties of each but a bit tougher than the female skins.
	Sheepskin/Lambskin - Extremely soft, comfortable, pliable but can stretch and excessively distort the shape of the garment after excessive use, some tanning can be expensive, softer and plumper is more expensive, less expensive skins have a tight small pebble grain and the cheapest skins will be course in it's feel.
	Deerskin - Most value in softness vs. durability, extremely soft and extremely durable, generally very expensive. Pebble grain common. Soft touch and somewhat spongy in it's feel. Thickness is between 1.0 and 3.0 mm thick.
	Chamois - Is baby lambskin. Absorbent and naturally yellow in colour. This is the split section of the hide. Can be used in washable garments, stains easily, extremely soft to the touch and my dry stiff unless hung neatly to dry. Thickness is from .8 to 1.2 mm thick.
	Naked - This is a tanning process or lack of finishes giving it the Naked name. Any skin can be naked but most commonly you will find naked leathers in cowhide with all the durability and qualities of such. Generally a more expensive skin because they have to use choice skins (without markings and scars) for the leather to be used in manufacturing without waste.
	Distressed - A term used commonly these days as an uneven coloured finish. Most common in light brown naked buffalo leather (where each panel on a garment is rarely a perfect match due to the unique qualities of each and every skin). In the 50's though the 80's distressed leathers had been where the painted outer coat finish cam off or rubbed off during use. Some people still use words like "rub off" or "pull up" (pull up has extra oils in it for a similar effect). Distressed can come in a variety of thicknesses, textures, skins and even colours.
	Patch Leather - Random scraps of leather are sewn together and then pressed to make a large flat garment later cut into pattern parts to make things from jackets to bags. Generally any type of leather is used here. Most common is garment weights of .9 to 1.0 mm thick in a variety of pigskins, lambskins, goatskins, sheepskins and even cowhide.

Fabulista Appalled: With The Lack of Good Taste...

That one should desire to dress up and accessorise appropriately when it comes to a public party is not surprising. In fact, it is a sign and gesture of good taste and breeding.

Unfortunately, this discreet gesture of the upper crust was distinctly missing at the recent YSL launch. The party was typically attended by the generally well-heeled, socialites, tai-tais and wannabes. However, what was missing was the attendance of the muse called Good Taste.

Splashed almost every tai-tai and wanabe’s arm was a Hermes Kelly or Birkin. Mind you, at 60cm wide, a Birkin is no tote – it really is a weekender*. Also, at an evening do, why would anyone be holding on to a handbag that looks more suited for the office than the ballroom? I would have thought that a clutch would be more appropriate for the occasion…

In the end, they were like handbag lemmings – all looking similar and have an appalling general lack of good and selective taste. So eager to set themselves apart, they end up looking identical, uniformed, indistinguishable, unremarkable.

The ironic part was, although it was a YSL do, there were more Hermes on swinging on the arms of the guests than there were YSL bags on sale. It was like the boutique opened its doors, promptly had diarrhoea and made Hermes.

For some ideas on what other bags might have been more suitable and still gestures towards one’s good taste while setting one apart, here are some suggestions:

Loewe - Amazona	Chanel - 2.55	Christian Dior - Lady Dior
Fendi - Spy	Bottega Veneta - Veneta	Louis Vuitton - Mahina XS

*The Birkin is an enlarged version of the Kelly as suggested to Hermes by the actress herself.